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GRASS CYCLING
Grass clippings make up a surprisingly large portion of
California's waste stream during the growing season. Increasingly, California communities
are looking toward "grass
cycling" to reduce the amount of waste
going to our landfills.
WHAT Is "Crass cycling"?
Grass cycling is the natural recycling of grass by leaving clippings on the lawn when mowing.
Grass clippings decompose quickly and release valuable nutrients back into the soil. Grass cycling is simple, easy, and it works!
Grass cycling
can be practiced on any healthy lawn as long as proper turf management
guidelines are followed. Unfortunately, many people treat their lawns like a
"crop": they (over) water and (over) fertilize their lawns to encourage maximum
growth. The crop (grass clippings) is then bagged and transported to a landfill. Proper
mowing, watering, and fertilizing results in more moderate turf growth yet still produces
a healthy, green lawn.
MOWING
Proper mowing is required for successful
grass cycling. Cut grass when the surface is dry, and keep mower blades sharp. Follow the
"1/3 rule": mow your lawn often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the length of
the grass blade is cut in any one mowing. Frequent mowing will produce short clippings
that will not cover up the grass surface. You may have to cut the lawn every 5 days
when the lawn is growing fast but only every 7 to 10 days when the turf is growing slowly.
LISTED BELOW ARE PROPER MOWING HEIGHTS (IN INCHES) FOR
VARIOUS TYPES OF GRASSES.
Grass
Type
|
Mower
Setting (inches)
|
Mow when grass reaches this height (inches)
|
| Bent Grass |
1/2 - 1 |
3/4 - 1 1/2 |
| Bermuda Grass (common) |
1 - 1 1/2 |
1 1/2 - 2 1/2 |
| Bermuda Grass (hybrid) |
1/2 - 1 |
3/4 - 1 1/2 |
| Kentucky Bluegrass |
1 1/2 - 2 1/2 |
2 1/4 - 3 3/4 |
| Kikuyu Grass |
1 - 1 1/2 |
1 1/2 - 2 1/4 |
| Perennial Ryegrass |
1 1/2 - 2 1/2 |
2 1/4 - 3 3/4 |
| Tall Fescue |
1 1/2 - 3 |
2 1/4 - 4 1/2 |
| St. Augustine Grass |
1 -2 |
1 1/2 - 3 |
| Zoysia |
1/2 - 1 1/2 |
3/4 - 2 1/4 |
In many areas of California, raising the mowing height in the summer encourages deeper
roots and protects grass from drought and heat damage.
You can grass cycle with almost any mower.
The mower collection bag can be removed to allow clippings to drop on the lawn. However,
if your mower does not have a safety flap covering the opening where the bag fits into the
chute, contact your local retailer to purchase a retrofit kit. Some lawnmower
manufacturers have developed mulching or recycling mowers that cut grass blades into small
pieces and force them into the soil. These types of mowers are effective in grass cycling
and have become very popular in many eastern states where yard wastes are banned at
landfills. Several brands of recycling mowers are available in California.
COMMON QUESTIONS REGARDING GRASS
CYCLING
DOES GRASS CYCLING CAUSE THATCH BUILD UP?
No!
Research has shown that grass roots
are the primary cause of thatch, not grass clippings. Thatch is composed primarily of
roots, stems, rhizomes, crowns, and stolons. These plant materials contain large amounts
of lignin (wood) and decompose slowly. Grass clippings are approximately 80 to 85 percent
water with only small amounts of lignin, and decompose rapidly. Some turf grasses such as
Bermuda grass and Kikuyu grass are more thatch-prone than others. A small amount of thatch
(approximately inch is actually beneficial to a lawn, providing insulation to roots and
serving as a mulch to prevent excessive water evaporation and soil compaction. It may also
create a cushioning effect for lawn play.
DOES GRASS CYCLING SPREAD LAWN DISEASE? NO!
Improper watering and fertilizing have a much greater impact on disease spread than grass cycling. If a desirable environment for turf
grass disease is present, infestation will occur whether clippings are collected or not!
WILL GRASS CYCLING MAKE MY LAWN LOOK BAD? No!
If a lawn is properly mowed, watered, and fertilized, grass cycling can actually produce a
healthier-looking lawn. It is important to cut the lawn frequently to produce small
clippings that will decompose quickly. If a lawn is not cut frequently and clippings are
left on the lawn, it will produce a "hay-like" look which can be unsightly.
Many golf courses and parks have practiced grass cycling
for years. Ninety-eight percent of the participants in a grass
cycling study conducted by Texas A&M reported that they will never bag
their clippings again.
ARE THERE ALTERNATIVES TO GRASS CYCLING? YES!
Grass cycling is not appropriate in every
situation. Prolonged wet weather, mechanical breakdown of mowers, or infrequent mowing are
situations where grass clippings should probably be bagged since an excessive volume of
clippings will be generated. But do not throw the clippings away!
Grass clippings are excellent additions to a backyard compost pile. Clippings can also he
used as mulch to provide weed control and prevent moisture loss around flower beds, trees,
and shrubs. (Mulching with clippings should be avoided, however if the\ re of an invasive
variety such as Bermuda grass, or if herbicides have been applied recently to the lawn)
Grass clippings are a valuable resource and simply should not be thrown away For more
information on grass cycling, contact the Integrated Waste Board's Hotline number at (800)
553-2962,
Grass clippings make up a surprisingly large portion of California's waste stream
during the growing season. Increasingly, California communities are looking toward "grass cycling" to reduce the amount of
waste going to our landfills.
WATERING
Turf grasses vary in their need for water. Most established
grasses
in California need 1 inch of water every 5 to 7 days in the growing season and much less
during months when growth is slow (Caution soil types and weather may
dictate a more frequent watering cycle). Lawns watered too frequently tend
to develop shallow root systems that may make them more susceptible to stress and disease.
Deep, infrequent watering produces a deeper, more extensive root system which enables turf
to resist disease and stress. Over watering is not only wasteful, it also causes lawns to
grow faster and requires more mowing.
The best time to water is early morning, as less water is lost due to evaporation.
Try to
avoid watering in the evening because it may encourage disease development.
FERTILIZING
Proper fertilization is essential in maintaining a healthy lawn. Over fertilization can
weaken a lawn by causing excessive and succulent top growth. For moderate, even growth,
use a combination of fast-acting fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, or urea)
and slow-release nitrogen sources such as sulfur-coated urea, urea formaldehyde, IBDU or
organic fertilizers. Avoid using high quantities of fast-acting fertilizers. These
fertilizers produce very fast growth for short periods. Regardless of the grass type and
its nutrient needs, as a general rule it is better for the lawn, and for grass cycling, to apply smaller quantities of
fertilizer more frequently rather than larger amounts less frequently. Grass cycling can reduce the amount of fertilizer
needed by 15 to 20 percent because grass clippings return
nitrogen to the soil. (See Turf Doctor Fertilizing for
more information.)
Special thanks to Dr. Ali Harivandi of the University of California
Cooperative Extension for his contributions to this article,

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